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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 13th, 2023

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  • That’s interesting, didn’t know that existed. I know OP didn’t ask about cost but I was curious if you’ve been paying for major version upgrades or subscribing for the yearly support? According to their pricing page only minor updates would be automatic for the free installs

    https://fydeos.io/pricing/

    so you’d need to manually upgrade the system whenever you need a major OS update to be done. It doesn’t seem quite as automatic as OP was hoping for but maybe it’s not a bad tradeoff if you only need to touch it once a year or whatever the software release schedule is.


  • Those who bought an Office license back in 2019 are very much likely to have upgraded their packages already

    You’d be shocked how often that’s not the case. So, so many people and small businesses don’t feel like buying another new license of MS Office and instead just re-install an old licensed version on their new system when needed. Just in my own bubble of working at different small businesses or helping people with computers I’ve repeatedly encountered ancient versions of MS Office that people cling on to. People that do lots of IT support in the field must encounter this fairly regularly.

    When I ask/question people on using their old outdated MS Office it’s some combination of “I don’t want to learn something new” or “I paid for it so I’ll keep using it”.

    And nowadays, besides LibreOffice, people also have the option of using MS Office Online or Google Docs but that still falls into the category of needing to do things slightly differently vs what they’re used to.


  • Seems rare-ish, very skeptical about $3 million rare but I guess the selling point is more about that particular cartridge being distributed with the Nintendo sticker seal vs the plastic shrinkwrap most cartridges had later on?

    anyone I knew who had an NES had the Super Mario / Duck Hunt multicart, or very occasionally Super Mario / Duck Hunt / Track & Field triple game cartridge from the bundle that included the Power Pad.

    You got me thinking about that, you’re probably talking about what Nintendo called the Action Set bundle, or the Power Set after that, when they were including those dual/triple game paks.

    My own was the earlier bundle, what Nintendo called the Deluxe Set, that one came with two separate games (Duck Hunt and Gyromite). We had to buy SMB separately… definitely don’t remember if it had a sticker vs shrinkwrap.

    Wikipedia mentions the different NES bundles back then https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nintendo_Entertainment_System#Bundles_and_redesigns




  • Offhand I’d suspect a finicky adapter. Does the adapter work with other disks? Does the disk work when plugged into a server/computer directly?

    Assuming it’s the adapter being finicky - did you happen to try using other USB cables with the adapter?

    When plugging into the system - Does the dmesg output display anything else useful, any warnings or anything? I would have thought it would give you the USB drive chipset vendor/model, I didn’t think Sabrent builds their own chipsets but could be wrong.

    Also would try doing a smartctl --scan followed by a smartctl -a /dev/YOUR-EXTERNAL-DRIVE and see what comes up. (those are part of smartmontools)




  • Are you able to get phone service with your primary internet service wherever you’re at? That ISP already has your billing info so it’s not like you’d be giving out any more info.

    If you can do that then you can basically live like every other person without a cell phone. I know older people that don’t have cell phones so they just use landlines/ISP phone service for phone calls. For banks they literally just go to the local brick and mortar bank, there’s no requirement banking has to happen online or on a phone. And for calling the local cab companies, calling those with the house phone is easy enough.

    But yeah you’re basically talking about disconnecting from having an online presence since you don’t want to use Uber/Lyft apps, don’t want to use bank apps, and won’t have a mobile phone or smartphone with phone service.



  • Adding onto the other comments, if you have admin access to your network router/firewall you can configure the incoming port forward itself to only allow specific IP addresses while dropping traffic from any other internet WAN IPs. It’s a bit like using the Jellyfin whitelist/blacklist but doing it at the network level. This drops all unwanted internet traffic to that port at the firewall before ever reaching the Jellyfin software. Downside is having to occasionally update the firewall whenever there are IP address changes.

    This is probably only feasible if you only have some specific Jellyfin clients in mind to accept connections from, not any random person from any random WAN IP address.



  • I’m not on that specific tracker but some of the others have similar sort of rules

    They have something about changing IPs, it seems you can’t change IPs too often and you can’t have multiple accounts in the same IP. Why?

    That’s generally for detecting ban evasion / duplicate accounts. But I think with most private trackers you’d just need to let staff know if you’re in a shared IP situation.

    They absolutely not allow mobile client, which means, you need to let your PC on all the time, sum this up with the fact that they require 72h seed within the next 30 days, this is a t least 2.5h of seed daily and if you miss one day for any reason it’d be even more for the next days. But my question is about the mobile, why the hell can’t I use my phone to seed? I talked to a mod and they argue mobile isn’t reliable due to battery optimization and it might kill the client. What does this even mean?

    The mod is sort of right about that one. Most mobile users aren’t even connectable (port forwarded) so that’s problem number 1. And problem 2, yes Android does pause apps for battery optimization - but technically you can configure your Android to not do that for specific apps, not sure if it works for all phones but in mine I just bring up the App Info, go to App Battery Usage, and make sure to enable “Allow Background Usage”… most people wouldn’t really want to do that and run down their phone battery constantly but I guess it’s an option. Maybe bring that up as a tracker suggestion/rule change though it does seem easier just to tell members not to use mobile clients.

    Why the torrent clients are so limited even the version you can use? What it has to do with anything at all? Again, is not seeding just enough?

    Maybe specific to that tracker, not sure. But usually torrent client lists exist because the tracker staff tested those clients against the private tracker software to verify that stats are being tracked correctly. And sometimes they do ban clients due to being buggy, being used for ratio cheating, that sort of thing.


  • Should I use PFsense or OpenWRT?

    I wouldn’t recommend pfSense unless you’re already invested in it (e.g. already have a pfSense setup and want to transfer your config files and settings over). Netgate (parent company) has been moving towards their paid versions (pfSense Plus and TNSR), the Plus version is free if you buy their router otherwise will cost you some money for a subscription. And meanwhile they stopped providing current downloads of full installs/builds of the free community pfSense so actually getting the current 2.8.1 is a hassle now - you’re expected to download their Netgate installer that needs internet access to download the full install while installing the router software, or you need to download/install an older version of pfSense (2.7.0 I think) and then get online to update it to 2.8.1.

    Just went through all that doing a re-install, it’s crazy that I need to have internet access to install the router that will provide internet access LOL.

    OPNsense is a well known alternative. OpenWRT could work too but I haven’t used it personally.




  • Like the other comment mentioned I’d try https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec first.

    Just a heads up with proper data recovery it’s usually a good idea to dump an image of the media card to your drive and do any data recovery attempts against that image, not the media card itself. I would usually use ddrescue for that but you’ll probably be okay with standard dd too if the card itself is fine (as you said the deleted files were user error, not a failing card).

    PS - You should definitely not use the media card in the camera until you’re done with recovery attempts, the more you use it the less likely you’ll recover anything off it.