PieFed communities do have reddit-style wikis attached. They work pretty well but don’t federate. Like somebody else mentioned, i think Ibis is closest we’ve got.

That makes sense, don’t wanna bog their whole network with streaming and such.

Is routing everything through Tor a good option?

Ooh, so a collection is like a starter pack? I’ve definitely got a couple ideas for those. Wait, what if somebody doesn’t want be in a collection? Is it like opt-in or something?

Edit: ahh ok, so there’s a toggle in your profile for whether you want people to be able to add you to collections, andddddd you can also remove yourself from one afterwards. I would imagine this might mean that collections can’t include accounts from other fediverse platforms though, right? Like somebody on Loops won’t have opted in, because that toggle doesn’t exist for them.

They are claiming it, maybe it’s in their slicer? Although a lie seems pretty plausible too lol

I definitely don’t like the looks of it, from the fact they don’t list any specs whatsoever to the claiming “it’s got AI!” or whatever. The last brand of printers I’ve seen that looked this shady had vendor lock-in SO BAD that, when the company went under, all the printers they sold got kind of soft bricked.

However, I’m assuming you’re looking at the ~$180 base model? At that price, veryy little else exists, admittedly…

I think Creality’s cheapest printer is probably like $20 more, but if you can swing it, that’s what I’d go with. For the following reasons:

• They actually tell you exactly what goes in the thing.
• There’s a very strong aftermarket repairs/mods scene built up around them.
• There are entire projects built around converting cheap Crealities into other things, for if you outgrow it.
• It’s like the closest you can get to no vender lock-in without building/buying an open source one.

Like others have said, if you’re just trying to make a raised version of a simple flat design, that’s easy. Ideally convert it to a vector first, and then import it into just about any CAD software. Even TinkerCAD can do that.

If it’s more of a real 3d object, i.e. varies across a few dimensions, first consider how complicated it is. As long as there aren’t too many organic curves, the best route might be to take careful measurements and recreate it from scratch in CAD.

Finally, if none of those options are possible, it’s time for photogrammetry. Mix up a simple solution of isopropyl and zinc oxide (or anything talc-like i guess, I dunno), and use a quality sprayer bottle to speckle your object with it. Try to illuminate the object well from only a single source. If you can, pick up some cheap cross polarizing filters, use one on the light source and one on the camera. Take shots at the same distance from as many angles as you can, covering the whole object, ideally with a matte background. As mentioned, Meshroom is pretty decent at turning such a photoset into a decent object, but it does rely on you having a reasonably powerful PC. Alternatively, OpenScan offers a free cloud based option. (They’re also just very cool people who do lotttsss of other stuff, my makerspace just built one of their “Mini” rigs. Works great btw!!)

It works exactly like Lemmy, yeah!

If your experience with PeerTube comes from their official app, the UI is kind of unintuitive to anyone familiar with the fediverse. I think they tried really hard to prioritize users not having to be signed in at all, if that makes sense?

Blueblood Arena

I seem to have minor compatibility issues with most controllers on my EndeavourOS PC, but it seems to vary more with the games than with the different controller brands themselves. Seconding 8BitDo being pretty tough though.

Now the real question is, has anyone designed an open source controller (not fightstick/hitbox), that is purchasable? Like Ploopy or Tindie or something?

I’ve never tried without an enclosure, because it smells way more poisonous than the internet says it is. Hard to imagine it being any harder to print than it already is though, I’d imagine it’s fine

It’s not too hard to remove from the bed. It will, however, become one with the print itself lol

Polypropylene, hands down. Most plastic thingies that’re meant to bend constantly without wearing out are PP. Like those little straw caps attached to big drink tumblers? The bendy part, if not the whole hinge, is usually PP i think. I think generally things that could be described as “living hinges”.

I will say though, that it’s easily the most difficult filament I’ve ever had the displeasure of printing. It absolutely REFUSES to stick to literally anything but other polypropylene lol. What you do is just put some packing tape on your bed, that stuff’s made of PP as well.

If I had that amount for a printer, I’d get an LDO Delta Flyer kit or an LDO BabyBelt Pro kit. Maybe even 2! They’re pretty cheap last i checked

Oooh that’s cleverrr… Great job! Definitely coulda used this technique a few times in the past if I’d ever thought of it

Whoaa cool!!

As a non-techy person, I was under the impression from lots of fedi folks that it would either cost a fortune or otherwise be quite impractical to completely divorce ATProto from bluesky itself. However, as a WAFRN enjoyer, Gabbo seems to really know what he’s doing, and he actually prefers ATProto over AP… What’s the actual deal here?? Is it easier than expected somehow?